Nov 042012
 

Building an Eco Home - Floor Plans @ Common Sense Homesteading

The “Building an Eco Home” series is nine articles that were originally published in The Healthy Independent while we were in the process of building our current home. I have made only minor edits to include links and format for the online publishing. I will be discussing green building and remodeling in more detail in upcoming posts, so if you want to know more about a topic, please make a request.

For those of you who are new to our “eco-home”, let me provide a brief overview of progress to date. Our goal at the start of this project was to build a home that conserved energy and resources, was accessible for family and friends with physical limitations, and had enough acreage that we could fully pursue our interests in organic gardening, orcharding, heirloom plants and livestock and other outdoor pursuits.

Finding the right property in our budget was a challenge, but we did it. (Read more about that in part 2.)  House placement and access presented some more challenges, but we finally broke ground in October 2004. Just about everything that could happen to slow things down, did, but we are finally nearing completion. Hopefully by the end of May or early June we will be moving into our new home. Continue reading »

Sep 142010
 
Root Cellars 101 - Root Cellar Design and Use
Looking into our root cellar

We built a root cellar under our front porch.  Typically, if you’re building new your porch floor is formed out of a concrete slab, you need to put a foundation wall under it anyway, so why not put this area to good use?  Even if you can’t deal with (or don’t want to deal with) traditional root cellaring (storing vegetables and fruit), you could use the space as a wine cellar, gun cabinet, place to brew beer, a battery room for your PV/Wind system or simply more storage.  I highly recommend including a root cellar as part of your emergency preparedness planning if you can, as it’s a great low-cost, no-energy way to store food and extend the shelf life of fresh produce.

Our root cellar measures about 8′x8′, which provides plenty of room for our stash of root veggies, plus gives a nice sized porch above.  We have simply shelving along the east wall (opposite the door) composed of rough cut 2″x8″ boards and cement blocks.  Produce that likes drier conditions (like onions, garlic and potatoes) is stored in trays on the shelves for better ventilation.  This way, if an onion or potato starts to go bad, they can be spotted and removed immediately before they spoil the whole batch.  My mom used to store hers in mesh sacks, but many times one bad roots would spoil a large number of those around it.  I cover the potatoes with burlap or landscape fabric or whatever else is handy to block out the light (and prevent green potatoes) but allow ventilation.  A few cabbage go on the top shelf, and apples go out in the garage.  Pumpkins and squash go on the floor of the canning pantry because they like it a little warmer and drier.

I store vegetables that need more moisture in buckets, bins or boxes packed with lightly dampened leaves.  For us this usually means beets and carrots (I overwinter parsnips out in the garden).  I tried packing these vegetables in sawdust and in sand, but prefer the leaves.  For me, sand stayed too moist and led to rotting, plus it made a terrible mess.  Sawdust was also very messy, but better than sand.  It really liked to cling in all the little root hairs.  The leaves provide moisture to keep your roots from shriveling up, but are easy to brush off with much less mess.  They can be recycled into the garden during the next planting season to enrich to the soil.  (I like to mix mine with the dirt I use to back fill my potato planting holes.  Leaves add acidity to the soil, which helps prevent scab on potatoes.)  Do use fresh leaves each year to prevent potential pathogen buildup.

View to the left

Locating the root cellar outside the footprint of the home permits the root cellar to maintain cooler temperatures more easily than a cellar located within the house, but even if you have a pre-existing home you may be able to section off a portion of your basement with good results.  Using an exterior grade door (preferably insulated) on your root cellar also helps to maintain proper temperature (both in the root cellar and in the house).  If you are building new, consider putting the root cellar door in the back of an unheated storage room so that the temperature difference is less.  You can use this room to store veggies that require somewhat warmer and drier storage than a root cellar provides, as well as canned goods and whatever else you may need to stash.

Root cellars must have ventilation!  This is one of most common mistakes that people make when designing/installing them.  Proper ventilation moves the ethylene gas that causes spoilage away from the produce, increasing your storage time and the quality of the items in storage.  It also slows down molds and mildews and other fuzzy things that thrive in dark, damp, still environments.  You need the equivalent of a low and high 2” PVC pipe, preferably placed so as to bring in fresh air low on one side and to vent stale air out high on the opposite side.    Don’t skip the vent pipes if you’re building new, or at least their penetrations, even if you’re not sure you want to use the space for a root cellar.  You can always cap them off and they’re much more difficult to add later.

The root cellar should have no “standard” heating or cooling, other than a way to introduce outside air to cool the space. A “finished” floor is optional, and in fact a simple gravel floor is probably your best option for controlling humidity.  Root cellar produce keeps best with high humidity and cool temperatures.  A gravel floor introduces ground moisture and allows you to sprinkle the floor to add moisture when needed.  A single incandescent light (switched on exterior) should provide adequate lighting (unless your room is really huge) and, if for some reason your storage gets too cold, you can always use it to introduce a little heat.

The best resource we have found on root cellars is the book Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables by Mike and Nancy Bubel.  No matter what your location or how much space you have, the Bubels are likely to have a root cellar option that will work for you.  It contains detailed explanations of how to store vegetables and fruits without electricity with specific temperature and humidity recommendations for each variety.  There are also good photos and diagrams, which I really like.

Links

Yakhchal – Ancient natural refrigerators – who knew?

Keep Your Ice Cream Cold Without Electricity – Nifty article on a home built refrigerator substitute that uses no electricity or fuel.

Build a Basement Root Cellar by Steve Maxwell – Article from Mother Earth News

A Root Cellar for Your Homestead  by Victoria Ries – Some basic information on the cellar, more information on the proper storage of the fruits and veggies themselves.
The University of Missouri Extension Office suggests the following guidelines for storing food in root cellars:

 

Root Cellar storage requirements

Apples

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with vegetables
  • 32 to 40 degrees Farenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Beans, dry

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • 32 to 50 degrees Farenheit
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Beets

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Farenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Brussels sprouts

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Cabbage

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Cabbage, Chinese

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Carrots

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Cauliflower

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Celeriac

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Celery

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Endive (Escarole)

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Garlic

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • 32 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit ideal
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Grapefruit

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with vegetables
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Grapes

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with vegetables
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Horseradish

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity
  • May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your harvest season.

Jerusalem artichoke

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity
  • May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your harvest season.

Kale

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Kohlrabi

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Leeks

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Onions

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • 32 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit ideal
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Oranges

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with vegetables
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Parsnips

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Pears

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with vegetables
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Peas

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • Airtight container
  • 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Peppers, hot dried

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Popcorn

  • Cool and dry
  • Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage place
  • Airtight container
  • 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 60 to 70 percent relative humidity

Potatoes

  • Cold and moist
  • Do not store with fruits
  • 38 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit ideal
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Potatoes, sweet

  • Warm and moist
  • To keep sweet potatoes from spoiling in warm and moist storage, do not let temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Pumpkins

  • Warm and dry
  • 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 60 to 75 percent relative humidity

Radish, winter

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Rutabaga

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

Salsify, oyster plant

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity
  • May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your harvest season.

Squash, winter

  • Warm and dry
  • 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 60 to 75 percent relative humidity

Tomatoes

  • Warm and moist
  • To keep green tomatoes from spoiling in warm and moist storage, do not let temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 80 to 90 percent relative humidity

Turnip

  • Cold and very moist
  • 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit
  • 90 to 95 percent relative humidity

The length of time that fruits and vegetables keep well in root cellars depends on several factors:

    • Early or late crops (late-maturing crops store better)

 

  • Storage conditions (less-than-ideal conditions shorten storage life)
  • Fruit and vegetable condition at storage time (proper curing of damage-free produce results in longer storage life).

 

 

Vegetables and fruits should not be stored together even though temperatures and moisture requirements are similar. As fruits such as apples and pears ripen, they give off ethylene gas which decreases the storage life of vegetables. This is especially evident with potatoes which sprout early if stored near certain fruits. Also, the odor of strong smelling vegetables, like turnips and cabbage, can be absorbed by fruits and other vegetables. Store them away from other food and where the odor cannot waft into the house.

Do not allow fruits and vegetables to freeze.

This post has been added to Preparedness Challenge #7 at Homestead Revival,
Homestead Barn Hop #30 at The Prairie Homestead,
Fight Back Friday at Food Renegade
Apr 272009
 

Spring has finally arrived. Traditionally, this was the time when winter stores were running low and new growth was not ready for harvest – the lean times. How can we stretch our gardening season so that even in our cold climate we have access to fresh produce year round?

Learn to eat seasonally. Now is not the time to expect sweet corn in Wisconsin. Look for spring greens – young dandelion and nettles are rich in vitamins and are widely available (note: do not harvest greens that may have been sprayed with chemicals within the last year). Many types of garden vegetables thrive in cooler weather. If you started them earlier in the season, they may be available for harvest now. Otherwise, you can directly sow them in the garden now for harvest in a few weeks. Spinach, mache, lettuce, radishes, potatoes, peas and onions are a few of the crops that prefer cooler temperatures.

Second, plan for storage crops. Some crops, like parsnips and sunchokes, can overwinter directly in the garden. I just dug up my parsnips on Easter and they were wonderfully sweet and delicious. They will hold for a while in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator, but for long term storage they must be cooked and frozen. I still have carrots, beets and potatoes in the root cellar. They are starting to sprout, but are still firm and tasty. To extend their storage life, I break/cut off the sprouts as they appear. Shell beans are another “easy to store” crop. I have several jars in the pantry that I use for everything from soup to baked beans. I just cooked up the last of my pumpkins earlier this month and pureed and froze them. This will keep us in pumpkin bread and other goodies until next fall’s harvest.


Four Season Harvest Related Links:

Planning for Storage Crops – How to plan for storage crops in your garden.
The dandelion is a healthful, great tasting weed you can eat – From Backwoods Home magazine, a dandelion primer.
How to Recognize and Eat Stinging Nettles (and what to do if you get stung) – from Identifying and Harvesting Edible and Medicinal Plants in Wild (and Not So Wild) Places


Recipes

Maple Roasted Parsnips from Food Network

Ingredients

2 1/4 pounds parsnips
4 tablespoons melted butter
3 1/2 fluid ounces maple syrup

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Peel the parsnips and then halve them crosswise, then halve or quarter each piece lengthwise. Place the parsnips into a roasting tin. Pour the butter over the parsnips and mix them well so that the butter covers all of the pieces. Pour the maple syrup over the parsnips and transfer the roasting tin to the oven. Roast the parsnips for 35 minutes, or until they are tender and golden brown. To serve place on a clean serving dish. Makes eight servings.

Note: I also enjoy parsnips roasted simply with sesame oil and a little salt and pepper, especially spring harvested parsnips which are quite sweet already.

Boston Baked Beans from AllRecipes.com

Ingredients

2 cups navy beans
1/2 pound bacon
1 onion, finely diced
3 tablespoons molasses
2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup brown sugar

Directions

Soak beans overnight in cold water. Simmer the beans in the same water until tender, approximately 1 to 2 hours. Drain and reserve the liquid. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Arrange the beans in a 2 quart bean pot or casserole dish by placing a portion of the beans in the bottom of dish, and layering them with bacon and onion. In a saucepan, combine molasses, salt, pepper, dry mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and brown sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil and pour over beans. Pour in just enough of the reserved bean water to cover the beans. Cover the dish with a lid or aluminum foil.
Bake for 3 to 4 hours in the preheated oven, until beans are tender. Remove the lid about halfway through cooking, and add more liquid if necessary to prevent the beans from getting too dry.

Note: I like to use Tiger Eye heirloom beans for this recipe. They give it an extra-rich buttery texture.

Whole Wheat Pumpkin Pancakes from Pinch My Salt.com

Ingredients

1 C. whole wheat flour
1/2 C. cake flour
1 t. baking soda
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1 t. ground cinnamon
1/2 t. ground ginger
1/2 t. ground nutmeg
1 C. buttermilk
1 C. pumpkin puree
2 eggs
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 t. vanilla
2 T. dark brown sugar

Directions

In a large bowl, whisk together the first eight ingredients (whole wheat flour through nutmeg). In a separate bowl, whisk together the last six ingredients (buttermilk through brown sugar).

Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and blend together with a wooden spoon until just combined. Lumps are ok, just make sure all the flour on the bottom of the bowl is mixed in. If batter seems too thick to pour, you can gently stir in a little more buttermilk.

Drop pancakes by ladleful onto a medium-hot griddle. Pancakes are ready to turn when the edges start to look a little dry and you can see small bubbles forming on the surface.

Notes: You may substitute all-purpose flour for the cake flour if that’s all you have on hand. You may also use only whole wheat flour, just increase whole wheat to 1 1/2 cups and omit cake flour; pancakes will be just a bit heavier. Light brown sugar or white sugar may be substituted for dark brown sugar. If you have it on hand, 2 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice can be used in place of the cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg.

Apr 262009
 
Planning for Storage Crops

As I start to plant my garden, I’m planning for storage crops to keep our pantry and root cellar stocked. Most folks can grow a tomato plant or two to provide fresh eats in season, but eating from your homestead year round is the real challenge, especially in areas like ours where we’re likely to have snow from November to March (and sometimes longer).

I use a variety of approaches to extend the harvest. Eliot Coleman’s New Organic Grower got me thinking about crops that are more cold tolerant, some of which I hadn’t grown before, or hadn’t used for season extension. I grew up in zone 3 and my mom had a very traditional gardening approach. The ground was worked up in spring with a disk and tractor (we lived on a farm and had a BIG garden) as soon as it was dry enough. We planted in long, straight rows, and pretty much everything went in about the same time, somewhere in mid to late May. My garden is more like a patchwork quilt. I work up bits and pieces by hand or with a tiller as needed. Some of the beds that have been around longer don’t need to be worked up at all (I mulch heavily). This allows me to plant the cold tolerant crops in their areas while leaving the later crop areas undisturbed (I’m working towards consecutive crops). We get a lot of wind, so this cuts down on erosion.

Early spring finds me direct seeding cold tolerant greens like spinach, mache, minutina, and claytonia, along with potatoes, peas, and radishes. Inside, a variety of seedlings that require more heat await transplanting. Last year I also added container tomatoes and cucumbers. These plants stay small and bushy so they live out their lives in the greenhouse or a cold frame, giving me a jump start on my favorite summer veggies. We have a small attached greenhouse and two cold frames that I use to transition seedlings out to the garden.

Cold frame made from scrap wood and recycled patio door

When the weather gets a bit warmer, it’s time to put in the rest of the storage root crops. I have had good luck with carrots and beets in the root cellar stored in buckets with damp leaves. I tried sand one year, but it was really messy. Sawdust was pretty messy, too. Not all varieties store the same. My best keeping carrot was Scarlet Keeper from Fedco Garden Seeds. The other orange carrots stored reasonably well, too. The yellow and purple carrots (Yellowstone and Dragontongue) became somewhat dry and lost some of their sweetness. I tried sugar beets last year and was impressed with their taste and keeping qualities (Yellow Intermediate Mangel from Seeds of Change). We had a football sized beet that was still tender and delicious (and fed the entire family). I still have potatoes and onions in the root cellar, too, just kept loose in bins.

Digging Carrots in Fall

Some roots crops store best right where they grew in the garden. I just dug my parsnips on Easter, and I still have sunchokes waiting to be dug. Freezing improves the flavor of both. In fall I mulch them both heavily with straw. As soon as the ground thaws in spring, the parsnips come out. If you leave them in much longer they will begin sprouting and become tough and woody as they prepare to set seed. The sunchokes seem to be a bit more forgiving. To be honest, I’m not a huge fan of sunchokes, but they come back year after year and are about as easy as can be to raise, so I let them have their corner of the garden and mow around them to keep them in from getting out of hand.

Digging Parsnips in Spring
Shell Beans

Dried shell beans can keep for years in a cool dry location. I’ve got mine in mason jars in the pantry. They’re easy to keep pure for seed, too, as beans are self-pollinating. I spread mine around the garden, generally with at least one patch of flowers between bean varieties to keep the bees busy. I can renew six to eight varieties per season this way (I think I have around ten at this point). Pumpkins and squash keep for months in a cool, dry location. Mine live in on the floor in my canned good storage room. I just cooked up the last ones this month and put the puree in the freezer to hold us over until next fall.

I highly recommend Mike and Nancy Bubel’s book Root Cellaring for ideas on storing vegetables without electricity. Below is a link to a Minnesota Extension chart on fruit and vegetable storage to get you started. It’s pretty conservative, though, I’ve managed to keep most crops significantly longer than they indicate.

Harvesting and Storing Home Garden Vegetables

Of course I do quite a bit of canning, freezing and drying, too, but the crops that keep without a lot of fuss are some of my personal favorites.

Update:  May 13, 2011, and I’ve still got parts of the garden with standing water.  We had a snowy winter and a very wet and cold spring so far – one for the record books.  It’s sizing up to be a challenging gardening season, but we’re doing the best that we can.

Sep 222008
 

It’s harvest time!  The growing season is wrapping up in Northeastern Wisconsin and farmer’s markets and home gardens are overflowing with squash, pumpkins and root vegetables. The boys and I, along with some helpful friends, have been working hard to clear everything that is not frost tolerant from the garden. The cold weather greens I planted a couple of weeks ago are coming up – we’ll see how they do with our first taste of frost. Some celery and pepper plants will be dug up and moved into the greenhouse to extend their season; others will be protected in place with cold frames.

Our home includes a root cellar under the front porch and an unheated storage room in the basement. Most crops go in the root cellar (potatoes, onions, and other root vegetables), but pumpkins and squash go in cool storage along with the canned goods. If you don’t have a root cellar, an unheated basement, porch or garage can offer storage options. Pumpkins and squash can even be kept under the bed in a cool bedroom.

The best resource we have found on storing foods without processing or electricity is the book Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables by Mike and Nancy Bubel. No matter what your location or your available space, the Bubels are likely to have a cool storage option that will work for you. It contains detailed explanations of how to store vegetables and fruits without electricity with specific temperature and humidity recommendations for each variety. There are also good photos and diagrams, which I really like.

Food prices are likely to continue to rise, so no matter what your situation, now is a good time to stock up on fresh produce. With proper storage you can take advantage of this abundance for months to come.  You can learn more about our root cellar in the post “Root Cellars 101“.

Related Links:

Build a Basement Root Cellar by Steve Maxwell – Article from Mother Earth News

A Root Cellar for Your Homestead
by Victoria Ries – Some basic information on the cellar, more information on the proper storage of the fruits and veggies themselves.

Save $$$ with Proper Produce Storage – For those stashing things in their fridge produce bins, a quick summary of what to put in each bin based on ethylene gas production.

Storage Guidelines for Fruits and Vegetables
– From Cornell University Extension, this provides a quick summary of recommended long-term storage conditions for a variety of fruits and veggies.

How to Cook a Pumpkin to have Pumpkin Puree to Make Pumpkin Recipes – From Pumpkin Patches and More.org (a part of pick your own.org). Just in case you’ve never cooked up a pumpkin, here’s a complete “how to” with photos. Once you’ve had home-cooked you’ll never go back to the canned stuff.

Ode to Pumpkin Recipes

Pumpkin Bread
This recipe is from Candice Stauffer, gardener, baker and homeschool grandmother to a very creative and energetic group of boys.

Ingredients:

Wet:
3 cups sugar
2 cups melted butter
4 eggs
1 pound can or 2 cups home rendered pumpkin

Dry:
3 1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon allspice

Add at end: 2/3 cups water

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine sugar, oil, eggs and pumpkin. Mix together dry ingredients. Blend dry ingredients into wet ingredients. Stir in water. Pour into greased pans (2 large or 6 small loaf pans). Bake around 60 minutes. Test for doneness with toothpick in center.

NOTE: It seems to take 1 hr. baking, no matter what size the pans are. For small pans, I test at 50 min., usually still takes 5-10 min. more. This bread is very moist, so I sometimes place a rectangle of parchment paper or wax paper in the bottom of the pan to avoid sticking. The flour can be adjusted, using a portion of whole wheat in place of an equal portion of white, not over half (gets pretty heavy, doesn’t bake as well).

Pumpkin Soup from Scratch
From Pumpkin Patches and More.org. Click here for recipe with photos.

Ingredients:

3-4 cups pumpkin puree
1 Tablespoon minced garlic
1 large mild (sweet) onion, chopped
6 fresh carrots (chopped)
3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash of pepper
1 pint half-and-half
2 teaspoon thyme
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 stalks of celery (not 2 bunches!)

Directions:

Chop the onion and celery to about 1/8 in size. Sauté the onion and celery in butter until tender. Add remaining ingredients except half-and-half. Cover and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add half-and-half, and heat through. Serve warm. Makes 6-8 small servings.

Maple Pumpkin Pie Supreme
From epicurious.com, this naturally sweet pie will be a special treat at fall meals.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups pumpkin puree
3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup real maple syrup
1 1/4 cups half-and-half cream
1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
3 eggs
1 (9 inch) unbaked pie shell

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). In a large bowl, mix together 1 1/2 cups pumpkin, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and salt. Stir in maple syrup, half-and-half, and flour. Mix in eggs one at a time. Pour filling into unbaked pie shell. Bake at 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) for 1 hour, or until center is set.