A lot of us are trying to stretch our food budgets by growing our own or purchasing in bulk. Many are also joining CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) programs, which provide them with produce (and sometimes other items) throughout the growing season.
To take full advantage of local food sources, we need to find ways to store food after harvest. This post will introduce you to the basics of food storage, so you can decide which methods will work best for you.
How Can I Store Fruits and Vegetables at Home?
There are many ways to store produce for extended periods of time. The most common include:
Cool storage
- including cool, dry storage, such as an unheated pantry or porch, and root cellaring, i.e., cool, damp storage. “Root cellars” may include actual root cellars, unheated basement space, crawl space, in ground “clamps” (holes or trenches for food storage) and other options. Cool storage basics, including storage requirements for many crops, can be found in the post “Root Cellars 101“.
I always include storage crops that can store without much processing, such as shell beans, pumpkins and squash and root vegetables. You can read more about my favorites in the post “Planning for Storage Crops“.
Drying
- Food can be dried using a commercial dehydrator such as the Excalibur or American Harvest Dehydrator, or air dried in a solar dehydrator, on drying sheets or hang drying. Dried foods are great when storage space is tight, but dried foods loose more nutrients than root cellaring or canning. Dried foods should be stored in a cool, dry location in an airtight container for longest shelf life. The USDA recommends pasteurizing dried foods at 160F/71C for 30 minutes or freezing at 0F/-18C for 48 hours to kill insects and their eggs, but I haven’t had any insect problems with food dried in my commercial dehydrator.
Canning
- Canning is the heat processing of food in glass jars.
Water bath canning can be done with any large stockpot or kettle with a lid, as long as you have a way to keep the jars from sitting directly on the bottom of the pot and can cover your jars with at least two inches of water. Water bath canning is used to preserve high acids foods such as tomato sauce and pickles, and high sugar foods such as jams and jellies. If you can a pressure canner, you may use it for water bath canning by leaving the vent open.
Pressure canning must be done in a pressure canner, which processes foods using high temperature, high pressure steam. PRESSURE CANNING MUST BE USED FOR LOW ACID FOODS, such as beans, carrots, corn, soups, sauces, broth, etc.
Freezing
- Freezing foods typically produces flavors and textures most similar to fresh, and can be done without much specialized equipment. It is recommended that you blanch (briefly immerse in boiling water) most produce before freezing to stop enzyme action and insure best quality. I like to seal my frozen produce in vacuum seal bags to prevent ice crystal formation. I have found this to greatly improve the quality and storage duration for most crops.
LactoFermentation
- Natural fermentation can be used to change low acid foods into high acid foods, giving them a longer shelf life to store “as is”, or allowing them to be canned in a water bath canner instead of a pressure canner. Through the use of salt, whey or specific starter cultures, food is fermented, improving its digestibility and nutrient content. It becomes what is referred to as a “live culture food”.
Because fermentation involves substances such as lactic acid and specific microbes, the flavor profile and texture of the food does change. Fermentation is responsible for treats such as chocolate, cheese, yogurt, and kombucha, as well as pantry staples like sauerkraut, kimchi, sourdough bread and vinegar.
Preserving in Salt and Sugar
- More common before modern canning, freezing and dehydrating were available, packing foods in salt or sugar draws liquid out of the food, drying it, while the salt and sugar also interfere with microbe activity. These methods significantly impact food texture and flavor.
Immersion in alcohol
- Booze is toxic to microbes (to us, too, if we consume enough of it). You can submerge small amounts of food completely in the hard liquor of your choice, and they will store almost indefinitely. Best for making flavor extracts or perhaps some highly flavored fruit. I’ve still got some raspberries in amaretto in the back of the fridge that I pull out for special occasions.
Vinegar Pickling
- Microbes can’t survive in a high acid environment, so vinegar can be used for food preservation without heating/canning. Think old-fashioned pickle barrel. I make at least one batch of vinegar pickles every season.
Immersion in Olive Oil
- Very common is some parts of Europe, this is not one I recommend for the inexperienced home food preserver. Basically, food is immersed in oil, locking out the air, to preserve it. The trick is, air pockets can be trapped in side, and if the vegetables are low in acid, they present a serious botulism risk.
Which Food Preservation Method is the Best?
It really depends on what you’re trying to store and your storage conditions. The Natural Canning Resource Book states:
“While some nutrients are lost during canning, recent research has shown that refrigerating fresh fruits and vegetables also results in nutrient losses, especially of fragile vitamins like vitamin C. for example, broccoli loses 50 percent of its vitamin C and Vitamin A (in the form of beta carotene) after five days of refrigeration, similar in scale to the loss of vitamin C during cooking and canning. This is because plant foods are alive and thus continue to metabolize nutrients during storage. It’s safe to assume that root cellar storage causes the same magnitude of nutrient loss. Frozen food lose more nutrients than canned food after six months of storage. Dried food lose the most nutrients. With this in mind, canning is preferably done very soon after harvest, when nutrients are at their peak, thus preserving the most nutrients possible. “
In contrast, Mary Bell’s Complete Dehydrator Cookbook states:
When you dry foods at home under gentle conditions, you produce a high quality product. Compared with canning and freezing, both of which involve extreme temperatures, food drying is the least damaging form of food preservation.
Who’s more correct in their statements? I suspect both ladies may be correct, depending on the circumstances. In terms of taste and texture, I generally prefer frozen and canned products. Either way, properly ripened produce picked at perfect ripeness and processed quickly is nutritionally superior to most grocery store offerings.
Fermentation can add nutrition, but is generally limited to storage times of less than a year. Dried foods can last for years and take up very small amounts of space, but are best used in soups, stews or other recipes where they will benefit from long, slow cooking with plenty of liquid. Freezing is probably easiest for the beginner with minimal equipment, but requires freeze space, which can be limited. Canning can be used on a variety of foods, but does require some basic equipment. Canned goods may have a very long shelf life.
Recommended Food Storage Resources
Online
USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning
National Center for Home Food Preservation – Drying Food
National Center for Home Food Preservation – Freezing Food
and of course, here!
Books
Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving
The Natural Canning Resource Book
Mary Bell’s Complete Dehydrator Cookbook
Preserving Food Without Canning or Freezing
The Encyclopedia of Country Living
Concerns about Tattler Reusable Canning Lids
After reading rave reviews online about Tattler reusable canning lids, I took the plunge and ordered some with friends. My results were not as good as I had hoped. I noticed a significantly higher failure rate than standard canning lids, both during and after processing. The lids are also easily damaged if they are improperly removed from the jar (say by an eager little boy who is hungry for peaches). The National Center for Home Food Preservation has also documented higher levels of seal failure rates on Tattler lids than Jarden two piece lids.
The Natural Canning Resource Book details further concerns:
“Tattler lids are composed of polyoxymethlylen copolymer, an acetal copolymer. Copolymers are linked plastics which contain two or more ingredients. … (The author’s father, a chemist) noted that the copolymer is made from a trimer of formaldehyde called trioxane and other compound variations. Formaldehyde is a highly-toxic substance long known to be carcinogenic. Some of the secondary additives are also potentially dangerous to human health and the environment.”
The book continues to give detailed evidence of uncombined formaldehyde in the lids. **Note – there has been some discussion about this on online forums since this post went live, noting that the temperatures involved in canning are not high enough to release the formaldehyde from its bonds in the copolymer. This is accurate. Of concern is the uncombined formaldehyde, which is explained in detail in the book. Further, what happens to the workers who are exposed to the chemicals during the manufacture of these lids? Is it alright to expose them to formaldehyde, as long as it doesn’t get into your food? If you have further questions, I suggest you contact the author directly at her website.
The Tattler lids should not be used with alcohol, strong acids, chlorine or strong sunlight, which will break down the plastic of the lids. The plastic of the lids may contain melamine, which has been linked to potential organ damage with prolonged exposure. I won’t be ordering more of these lids.
In the coming weeks, we’ll be continuing the “Getting Started” series, with posts focusing on each type of food preservation. Next week, I’ll do a quick side trip to getting started gardening, but I wanted to give a brief overview of food preservation first so you could tie the two together for this year’s garden and food source planning. Many CSAs are taking on new client this time of year. It’s good to think ahead and know that you can preserve any excess produce you may have during the season.
I hope you find this post useful. Please consider sharing it if you do, and let me know if you have any “Getting Started” questions that you’d like answered.
View the first post in this series “Become More Self- Reliant – Start Here“.
This post has been added to Fight Back Friday at Food Renegade and Simple Lives Thursday at GNOWFGLINS.










Great info. Will retweet! Thanks.
So what lids do you recommend if not tattler?
Ideally, I’d like to see metal lids with no BPA. In terms of chemical exposure, I suspect it’s six of one and half a dozen of the other. BPA is a known endocrine disruptor, even at trace amounts, and formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. For me, the primary concerns (beyond chemical exposure) are higher failure rates and that the lids are prone to damage with normal use (in my household). Others may have a different experience.
I prefer using the Kerr two piece canning lids as they don’t have the white coating that the Ball ones do. Such linings often contain bha.
I am new to canning and some other types of preserving. I’ve been perserving with salt, vinegar and I’m started to can. I thought this post was super helpful. Such great info and resources. Thank you
Thanks, Susan and France!
I asked Lisa Rayner of The Natural Canning Resource Book if she anythign further to say on the subject of Tattler lids and relative nutrient values of homes stored foods. Here is her reply:
Laurie,
I don’t have much to add to what I have already written. I always seek out as much physical evidence as I can before writing about something—meaning, scientific studies published in peer-reviewed journals.
What I see as the fallacy in Mary Bell’s statement on your Web site is that heat is not the only cause of vitamin destruction. It is one of several causes of nutrient destruction. Oxygen in the air (oxidation), sunlight and intense artificial light sources, moisture loss, and the slow death of produce in cool/cold/frozen storage are other causes of nutrient loss. This list might not be complete, either. Where and how dried and canned foods are stored are also factors in the quantity and speed of nutrient preservation/loss.
As far as Tattler lids are concerned, just because the FDA says a plastic is food-safe, that does not mean it is so. Most of the synthetic chemicals in use in modern society have never been subject to serious research on human health and the environment. To my knowledge, formaldehyde-based plastics have never been extensively tested the way bisphenol-A plastics are finally being investigated after decades of use. People thought BPA was safe, too. I have a plastic water jug I purchased from my local natural food store made of BPA (otherwise known as polycarbonate plastic) maybe five years ago. It has a label on it stating it’s supposed health benefits over softer plastics for food storage (at that time those softer plastics were finally being seen as potential health risks). Whoever created the label took very limited public information about BPA and made an untrue claim about the safety of BPA as a way to sell more jugs. I see the “BPA-free” promotion of Tattler lids the same way. Yes, the lids are made of BPA-free plastic, but that does not prove the lid plastic is safe. If someone wants to prove if Tattler lids pose a health risk, or not, and how much of one, they can go seek the grant money, do the research, and get their research results published in a peer-reviewed journal. Otherwise, I personally find the touting of unstudied substances as “safe” to be unethical.
Lisa Rayner
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I’m disappointed to hear about the Tattler lids. I honestly thought they were ceramic. I’m wondering if the old baler jar with glass lids and rubber rings is the best. What do we know about them and where can a person get them these days?
Cate – I don’t know of any ceramic lids currently being manufactured. Weck offers all glass jars with rubber gaskets, but they are quite expensive: http://www.weckcanning.com/products.php
The glass lids must be used with their jars, not standard canning jars. The jars are available on Amazon.com, too, but are even more expensive there (http://www.amazon.com/BlissHome-Weck-290ml-Preserving-Medium/dp/B005DXWZIE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1326651125&sr=8-3)
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Could you link to the NCHFP documentation of seal rates. I did a search on thier site but could not find it. Thanks!
All I was able to find is that they do not recommend lids with rubber rings (http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/general/equp_methods_not_recommended.html). I have sent them an information request asking for data specifically on the Tattler lids, but do not know when/if i will hear back. The information regarding failure rates quoted in the post was from the Natural Canning Resource Book.
I am going to take the plunge and begin canning this year, so thanks for sharing such a helpful post to get me started!
You’re welcome, Justine.
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